The French Connection - Pondicherry

24 - 29 December 2007
We spend a few days in Bangalore doing the Brigade Road and all the malls, pubs and restaurants but the roads leading out of the city tempt us. So one fine morning we drive off towards the east – destination Pondicherry. The road from out side Bangalore to Krishnagiri is a dream come true and we travel at almost the speed of sound. From the Krishnagiri, I take the NH66 and till day I rue the decision. It is an elongated pot hole almost 55 kms long. Our souls and the suspension is saved only when we reach Thiruvanamalai. Mount Arunachalam towers over this sacred town, which is home to the ashram of the greatest saint of the twentieth century – Raman Maharishi. He lived and preached here. His ashram exists here which is as always teeming full of foreigners. The ancient intricately carved temple of Thiruvanamalai stands testimony to the rich heritage of this region. A quick stop to take pictures is all we manage and then speed off. We stop at a way side dhaba for food. The place is cute and food edible. Also we are hungry!
The road winds through granite tors and monoliths that rear up from the surrounding forest like the bald pate of a friar. One rock formations like a sitting lion. Some of these monoliths are crowned with fortresses. They look almost indomitable like the comical Gauls and it seems as if the people who built them may have possessed the magic potion!
We drive on and suddenly the remnants of Gingee fort show up on both sides of the road. The mighty Gingee fort has straddled the ramparts of the granitic outcrops of Eastern Ghats since the 10th century. Now the fort lies in abandoned ruins but the view from road leads us to believe in its impregnability and the grandeur.
We make a hurried pit stop and zip on towards Pondicherry. Beautiful archways welcome us to the city. We drive on till we reach the promenade and then start the hotel hunt. It takes us all over the town but finally we settle down in the incredible flats which offer us absolute luxury and start to explore the town. The first to catch our eye are the cathedrals which surpass all others in size, style and grandure.
Pondicherry is a delightful place. It is old France stirred with Tamil and cracked ice. The policemen remind you of Beau and Peep with their cute red Kepis. The roads have French names and the French bungalows line the roads in pastel colours. Rue de Dumas, Rue de Bussy, Rue de Petit Canal and so on... and the pictures of repeated traffic offenders are posted on major traffic crossings.
The Promenade runs parallel to the rocky sea shore with War Memorial, Light House, Customs House and Le Cafe. At one edge of Promenade is the park where Duplex still presides. The quiche and omelettes at La Cafe are delightful. The road is lined with lovely French Villas in pastel shades, restored to pristine glory. The restaurants serve exquisite French cuisine and Coq-o-vin at The Bistro (Hotel de Pondichery) is perfectly done. The best thing about Pondy is the Bazaar – rue de bazaar! There’s a street with a temple which has a resident elephant that blesses all devotees. This elephant wears pure silver jewellery in the form of anklets and necklace! There is a shop called Titanic which sells readymade clothes; it is designed out of parts taken out of old ships! Then there is the street where designers sell their products on the pavement itself- a touch of Paris perhaps?
We drive around and check the beaches which are all away from the town but being year end are crowded. We drive in to Auroville and spend a few hours relaxing in the beauty of simplicity and fragrant air. The cashew trees are in flower and air is redolent with the sweet cinnamon aroma. A pond is full of pink water lilies in bloom. The Dome shines golden in the winter sun and all is well with the world.