Kumaon -Part 3

Nainital – Air-conditioned Karolbag!
16 June 2006
Leave Almora in the morning and zip down to Nainital the erstwhile summer capital of United Provinces of the British India where legendary Jim Corbett lived along with the likes of Sir Malcolm Hailey and Ibbotson. An Englishman chanced upon the lake in 1820s and started a hill station in typical English fashion but some Hindu priest related it to the Shiva- Sati story and proclaimed that the left eye of Sati fell here creating a lake and hence the name Nainital ( Naini- eye and tal – lake). What ever be the story, the place is beautiful with lush green forests on the hills surrounding the lake.
The lake waters are placid, cool and clear. Only draw back is the crowds! Who wants crowds on a holiday? The place is jam-packed with vehicles, tourists and locals. It is a crowded city. No accommodation is available and the only one with a parking we get is a very seedy joint. The day is spent admiring what could be admired, boating and sitting by the lake side. We go to the gurudwara and Nainadevi temple and offer our prayers. The temple is very clean and small. The gurudwara has all Hindi and kamouni speaking Sikhs. We sit by the lake side and watch the crowds and the huge carp and mahaseer in the lake. Abhi is very keen to see Gurney House, the once upon a time home of his hero Jim Corbett. So we go to a book shop and on asking we find that it is the oldest book shop of Nainital and Jim Corbett had been their customer. The Gurney House had been sold to some body and is a private home now but the winter home at Kaldhungi is a museum. We buy one book and a map of Nainital and go down looking for a placed to eat. We stumble upon Mountain Magic, a small restaurant run by an ex-Sherwood student. The food is excellent, décor is post-modern and looks like a student hang out.
Abhi buys a hat and stands by the lake side to have his picture taken while Panku and Raghav go out for one last boating trip. But Nainital is a disappointment so we decide to cut short and leave the very next day. Yes, I do get some nice pictures here.

17 June 2006
Early next morning we start for Kaldhungi, the winter home of Jim Corbett. It has rained the night before, so the weather is pleasant. All the trees, plants, houses, roads and hillsides have a clean washed look about them. We race out of Nainital having planned to breakfast on the way. After food we speed down towards the plains through some of the thickest forests I have seen in the recent times. This is all Corbett National Park and then we reach Kaldhungi.
This was the Jagir land of Jim Corbett, which was cultivated by tenant farmers. The Corbett family lived here in winters and when Jim went away to Africa after 1947, he gave the land free of cost to the tenant farmers. They run the Jim Corbett Trail and his cottage is a museum set up by the Government of India. Abhi and I have a feeling of having made a pilgrimage. A lot of photographs are taken, the museum seen and mementos from Mothi’s Shop purchased. Abhi is only smiles and so excited, happy and contented all at the same time. He cannot stop himself from saying, “Only today have I enjoyed my self. I am happiest here today. I could have stayed here for many days.” I have promised to get him here sometimes. God willing we shall make it.

Comments

  1. I really liked reading about your travel journey through various places, I've been to Almora, the quaint hill station, surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, is blessed with lush greenery and exquisite landscape. For tourists, there are plenty of hotels in Almora offering basic facilities.

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