Rider on the Storm

  Dodra – Kwar is a very less known cultural region of Himachal. It is a narrow valley drained by River Rupin, and enclosed by loft ranges of middle and greater Himalayas. Last year, a jeep able road was completed, connecting this valley to Rohru. Prior to this, people of this valley travelled by foot or horseback to Rohru. The easier rout was to walk along the river and reach Netwar, a large village in Uttrakhand. Netwar is also the confluence of rivers Rupin and Tons. According to the folklore, this valley was a part of the kingdom of Tehri but was given in dowry to the princess who married King of Rampur Bushahr. Thus it became a part of Himachal. The very idea of biking up to an unexplored region is very rib-tickling; so the plans are made well in advance and on 30 th May two of us load our bikes and scoot off. The rout we are to take is Chail, Kufri, Narkanda, Baggi, Khara Patthar, Rohru, Chanshal, Dodra and Kwar. The return is from Rohru to Hatkoti, Jubbal, Theog and Shiml...

Baisakh (April) is so pleasant, The branches blossom with new leaves. The soul-bride yearns to see the Lord at her door. Come, O Lord, and take pity on me! - Bara Mah - Guru Nanak Dev Ji April is the month of new leaves, ripening wheat and birdsong. The bare branches of trees bloom in to hues of reds and greens as leaves burst forth from bare branches. Bougainvillea explodes into colours as birds sing their nesting songs. This is the time when Mr. God sneaks in and paints everything in myriad hues of divinity. Winters are over and summer approaches. Plants and trees erupt into a riot of colour. Mulberries are laden with luscious purple fruit. Ants, flies, bees, birds and squirrels flock to the trees gorging on fruit or each other. A bee eater in his robes of green, red cardinal’s cap and kohl lined eyes meditates on a branch. Suddenly it darts at an unsuspecting bee flying by and breaks his ...

5/6/09 The conference in Garhwal University, Srinagar is just the excuse to pack my bags and ride off on my bike. Gagan is the only other person who is free, so both of us start early morning (6 am, if it is early enough!). The ride up to Dehradun is nice with a breakfast stop at Nahan. Here we meet a Swiss couple on a BMW who are riding from their home to Nepal! We can not keep pace with the Beemer but surely make quick work of the ride to Dehradun through lovely green forests. Till so far the ride has been a song but now the blistering heat and chaotic traffic starts taking its toll especially as it is high noon. It takes us best part of an hour to cross Dehradun and another to reach Rishikesh. A leisurely lunch and a siesta later we walk down to the Ganga. People flock in droves for the ritual baths absolving themselves of all the sins (and boy do we sin?). Some sit meditating afterwards while others frolic. As the sun drops towards the horizon the beautiful “ Ganga Aartis ” start...

The Bangalore- Mysore road is another driver’s delight but like all good things it starts only after a nightmare called Bangalore Traffic! We drive through scenic countryside with a back drop of granitic massifs and monadknocks. We cover the distance at a smart clip and stop at a very picturesquely located Cafe Coffee Day for some refreshment. Another quick drive and we are at the Tiger of Mysore’s den – Srirangapattam. The unmatched valour of Tippu Sultan and his relentless pursuit of freedom from the English yoke sends the blood surging. The tragedy unfolds as the guides take you through the time and space with their obviously embellished accounts of the life and times of this great king. With goose flesh we hear of the treachery at Water Gate, from where the British entered to destroy this almost impregnable citadel, and come to the serene spot where Tippu’s body was found. The palace was dynamited by avracious Brits but the temple complex and it’s chariot still stand in their gra...